![]() ![]() ![]() If you have a different preference, feel free to make that request in the special instructions at check out. By default we will sharpen as much of the blade as possible including any false edges if appropriate. The blades are rested between passes to prevent them from becoming hot and damaging their temper. The process involves many passes with sanding belts of various grits. The sharpening service is done with a belt sander. We adjust the angle of the edge to suit the specific blade and attempt to get as close to a bevel-less edge as possible without marring the surface of the blade. Some blades will take and hold sharper edges than others and the thickness of the blade will determine how wide the bevel will need to be. The resulting edge is somewhat dependent on the particular blade. The result is typically “very sharp” with a small secondary bevel and a bit of an “apple seed” profile. Our sharpening service will provide a good serviceable edge on the blade. Consider this as a general guideline only. The Edge ratings in particular are somewhat subjective and each blade can vary. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of. Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. However for reasons we won’t get into here, this is not the case. A common misconception is that swords should all be “razor sharp”. Moderately Sharp is close, but may need to be touched up to get the best performance. Possible values could be “Rebated” meaning the edge is intentionally thickened for safety, “Blunt” meaning the edge is fairly thick with little to no taper, ‘Unsharpened” which would taper to the edge but stop short of having any real cutting ability, “Slightly Sharp, Moderately Sharp, Sharp, or Very Sharp” Sharp or Very Sharp are considered good for cutting swords. The “Edge” spec will tell you about how sharp a blade is. A very high POB will result in a sword that feels heavier than it actually is and is difficult to wield. In general, a low POB results in good point control well suited to a thrusting blade, while a higher POB adds impact to a cleaving blade. A POB of 3”- 5” usually results in a well balanced sword, but does depend on the type of sword. In practice however, there are many reasons why you may not want this for a particular sword. In theory a sword with a POB of 0” is perfectly balanced. ![]() A number of 0” would balance exactly at the guard, while a negative number will have a POB in the hilt itself. It refers to the point on the blade where the sword achieves a perfect balance. stands for Point Of Balance, this is measured in inches from the hilt down the blade. We have also crossbow replicas, compound crossbows, pistol crossbows, recurve crossbows or children’s crossbows in our wide range.P.O.B. We offer also other crossbow accessories besides crossbow quivers. Every shooter will choose the right crossbow quiver here! Do not believe her and defend your sporting hobby successfully. Byzantine princess Anna Komnenova wrote about crossbow (in her writings Alexias) that it is “barbaric kind of bow”. ![]() Therefore it has never been as popular as the bow. But it was heavy and loading the crossbow took long. Crossbows were probably developed as improvement of the bow. Shooting a crossbow was frequent in Czech battlefields since the 13th century. Axes, spears, bows and arrows, lances, shields and swords (later) were next historical weapons that were developed to the end of Antiquity. It was a stone which was scabbled in the form of drop. Prehistoric people didn’t find it, but they hand-scabbled it. Lithic flake was the first tool that was designed to hurt animals. The invention of weapons is as old as mankind. Crossbow quiver underwent at least significant development. „ Crossbow quivers“ is category where you will find elegant hand-made leather quivers for bolts. ![]()
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